Berlin's heart has been returned to its bosom! Fanning out around the famous Unter den Linden (Under the Lime trees) avenue once used by the Prince Electors to get to their hunting grounds in the Tiergarten, the sprawling Mitte district has been the object of a frenzy of restoration and building work. A genuine open book of the country's history, Mitte is an architectural kaleidoscope, best explored on foot and Baroque and neo-Classical monuments rub shoulders with Stalinist and contemporary edifices.