The lofty cliffs of the west coast - Lefkada means "white island" - may have given the island its name, but it is most renowned for its lovely sandy beaches. Two worlds co-exist here: in the centre, in the shadow of Mt Stavrota (1 158m), old agricultural villages flourish; on the coast, offshore fishing and mass tourism feed the local economy. Add a music, arts and literature festival and you start to grasp that Lefkada has something for everyone.