It would be a mistake to write off Chef Matt Baker’s venture as just another hotel restaurant. This much is clear after an amuse of artichoke velouté. Indeed, freshly baked brioche, crispy duck confit and elaborately prepared vegetables score impressive marks at this French-American brasserie, named after the chef’s late mother and inspired by his upbringing in Houston and New Orleans.The Eaton Hotel, which also houses Baker’s casual café and bakery, is fortunate to play host to such an accomplished team—one that sources well and seasons with panache, all the while running an impressive bar that is as large as the dining room. Seafood towers and caviar service will no doubt tempt the big spenders on a menu that has something for everybody.