Kitschy and boisterous with modern cooking, this dining room is always packed. The space is slender while a soaring ceiling, skylights and open kitchen brighten the mood.Chef Matthew Accarrino's mingling of Italian and Californian elements makes for satisfying cooking, and the best of the season's produce is highlighted in the five-course prix-fixe menu. The meal might begin with a crespelle with pork belly, fennel and persimmon, or a chicken liver terrina with rhubarb and wood sorrel.  Of course, choosing between house-made pastas like squid ink perciatelli with octopus cream and chili pequin or spinach pappardelle with mushroom and fried egg might seem challenging, but it's difficult to go wrong.