Korean-born Simon Kim opened Cote as a joyful celebration of his home country’s love for beef allied with his admiration for the great American steakhouse. Just head downstairs and admire the meats hanging in the aging room. The space also breaks the norm in its mien—dark, moody and atmospheric. There’s a comprehensive wine list too, which, if you look close enough, offers nuggets of value. (Downstairs is their ersatz speakeasy, Undercote.)First-timers should go for the “Butcher’s Feast” featuring different cuts of beef, an egg soufflé, and enough banchan to cover your table. Meats are first presented raw for you to admire; your server then oils the grill and expertly cooks them. A supporting cast of kimchi and ssamjang merely elevate their flavor.