Note: This restaurant is temporarily closed.Chef Nikki Tran is not a traditionalist and those who want classic Vietnamese fare should head to Bellaire. But for those who stay, know that Tran tells her own story with food that only she can cook. Her smoked brisket pho is a revelation, made with melting slices of brisket swimming in a complex, smoky broth. It’s the Texas-Vietnamese fusion you didn’t know you needed. Bright flavors and diverse textures figure prominently into every dish, like those thin, chewy rice sheets wrapped around wagyu beef and wood ear mushrooms and dipped in a truffle nuoc cham. Comfort arrives in a cast-iron, layered with crispy rice garnished with pork belly and anchovies. Order more than you should; you’ll be surprised by how quickly it all disappears.