Tufted leather booths, a carved bar and dark wood set a swanky tone at Kimball House, an elegant spot located in a renovated rail depot. It's the place to sip well-crafted cocktails and snack on more than 20 types of oysters (tasting notes make it easy to choose). Beef tartare with sweet-onion jalapeño chips, capers and green olives, crisp garlic and a confit egg yolk is excellent. Grouper crudo is prepared with a tomatillo and pineapple "agrodolce," for a very refreshing dish. Dessert is always a highlight. Butternut crunch cake is layer upon layer of deliciousness, with brown butter-almond sponge cake, butternut squash mousse, hickory foam, and ginger-thyme ice cream. Paris Brest is bested with hickory roasted pineapple, ginger ganache and cashew praline.