Doughnuts, dry-aged steaks, and house-made pastas—Hogsalt Hospitality certainly has the lockdown on this corner of River North, but it all started in 2010 with this moody and imposing retreat. The bar up front mixes cocktails to a metronomic rhythm, while the back feels more intimate with studded leather banquettes and nostalgic lighting.True to form, the restaurant excels at big plates and bold flavors. We're hooked on the fried chicken that arrives with a golden-brown crust and rich mashed potatoes. But, who then will order the beef cheek pot pie with bone marrow gravy? You won’t have room for dessert, but order it anyway. A towering slice of carrot cake with spiced cream cheese frosting and toasted coconut counts as a vegetable anyway, right?