Wagyu beef is the star of this gastronomical show. From the opening decoratively arranged sashimi to simmered items, the chef keeps flavours light, hewing closely to Japanese traditions. From the oxtail spring rolls that follow, the restaurant becomes a wagyu kappo. Tongue and tenderloin are char-grilled, accompanied by seasonal vegetables for a splash of colour. The eye is drawn to the takiawase of oxtail soup and soup stock. Aubergine in summer and Kyoto yam in winter complete an idiosyncratic cuisine.