It’s hard to order poorly at this delightful retreat, formerly called Luscious Dumplings. The menu is concise, with half of the items dedicated to the eponymous specialty. Indeed this narrow hot spot has been a city-wide favorite since it opened in 2001, and continues to draw lines so long that servers leave a sign-in sheet outside. The secret to their success? Discipline. While many spots make dumplings ahead of time and freeze them, this kitchen starts fresh every morning.It’s best to begin slow with a tray of boiled pork and celery jiaozi—the wrapping smooth to the touch and boasting just the right amount of bite. Anything pan-fried, though, is the main draw. From juicy pork to fresh chives, these little parcels of goodness have few equals.