Hop Alley refers to the original name for Denver's Chinatown, but there's nothing historic about this sleek restaurant. In keeping with the contemporary look, the Chinese menu with Sichuan leanings features modern adaptations of classics. There's plenty of originality and bold flavors, as seen in dishes like gai lan, a dynamic plate of grilled Chinese broccoli with schmaltz and oyster sauce finished with house-made duck salt and crispy shallots. Shrimp toast topped with whipped shrimp and chicken thigh is far from standard thanks to mustard gastrique and tiger vinaigrette. Dan dan mian noodles are set with ground pork in a Szechuan peppercorn broth that brings the heat. Uniquely beguiling cocktails provide an excellent companion to the cuisine, accented with the likes of orgeat and green Sichuan peppercorns.