At the centre of a picturesque town sits this 16C red-brick house: a bijou place, with a heavily timbered interior and a contemporary design-led style. Self-taught chef-owner Laurie Gear brings together his experience from ‘stages’ at The Fat Duck and Noma in an array of menus. Accomplished, modern British dishes are confidently prepared and the well-measured flavour combinations have an understated complexity. Lamb is reared locally and venison is from the Woburn Estate, while seafood from Brixham is a highlight.